Last Updated: Oct 13, 2024

Come to Kameoka

A Former Kyoto Castle Town Near Arashiyama

This story was originally published on donnykimball.com and has been syndicated here on Medium.

These days, popular spots in Kyoto, such as Arashiyama and Kiyomizu-dera, have succumbed so badly to overtourism that they’re hardly recognizable anymore. Though this was already becoming an issue prior to the pandemic, these places have now reached a point where I can’t even recommend them to first-time visitors to Japan. However, I understand that those unfamiliar with Japan’s off-the-beaten-path allure still want to see the iconic sights, like Arashiyama’s bamboo grove. Fortunately, it’s easy to escape the crowds, if only momentarily, by visiting nearby Kameoka.

If you haven’t heard of Kameoka before, you’re likely not alone. Despite being only about 30 minutes from Kyoto Station, Kameoka feels as far removed from the overtourism madness in Japan’s former capital as can be. Nestled just beyond the mountains that form Kyoto’s westernmost border, Kameoka is a hidden hamlet that few foreign tourists ever truly experience. While many Arashiyama visitors do indeed choose to take a Hozugawa River Boat Ride or hop on the Sagano Romantic Train, few, if any, venture further into Kameoka.

Historically, Kameoka’s past is deeply intertwined with its strategic location at Kyoto’s westernmost chokepoint. During Japan’s feudal era, it…