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Last Updated: Nov 10, 2024
Fukushima’s Nihonmatsu Domain
An Unknown Section of Tohoku
Recently, I had the chance to visit Nihonmatsu in Fukushima Prefecture as part of a government initiative to encourage more tourists heading to Tohoku to stop by along the way. Truth be told, until this opportunity came up, even I didn’t know much about this part of Fukushima. Sandwiched between Koriyama and Fukushima City, Nihonmatsu is a true hidden gem that has yet to experience any of the ill effects of overtourism. My visit was specifically timed with the city’s Chrysanthemum Doll Festival, which has been held every October and November for many decades, but this former castle town is worth visiting at just about any time of the year.
Historically, Nihonmatsu was a significant castle stronghold with a legacy stretching back centuries. During the Edo period (1603–1868), it served as the seat of the Nihonmatsu Domain under the rule of the Niwa clan, and its strategic position along the Oshu Kaido made it an important hub for travelers and merchants moving between Edo (now Tokyo) and northern Japan. Though the original Nihonmatsu Castle (also known as Kasumigajo Castle) was largely destroyed in war, the ruins now stand as a beautifully preserved park that offers a peek into the city’s feudal past.