Nikko’s Takino-o Shrine
In Search of Shodo Shonin
This week, we are traveling back in time to follow the footsteps of Nikko’s founder, the Buddhist saint Shodo Shonin. Unfortunately, the vast majority of travelers to Nikko gloss over this hidden narrative and instead make a beeline for the ornate Toshogu Shrine. While this eternal monument to Tokugawa Ieyasu is indeed impressive, Nikko’s roots predate the shogunate by nearly 1,000 years. Luckily though, today much of Nikko’s ancient history remains available for intrepid individuals to explore.
Before diving into the details, let’s first talk about who Shodo Shonin actually was. Without drowning you in unnecessary details, know that he was a monk born during the Nara period (710–794). Of course, Shodo Shonin’s claim to fame is that he is progenitor of the complex of shrines and temples in Nikko. Since uncovering the location, Nikko has been considered a sacred place where Shintoism and Buddhism coexist. The establishments of Rinno-ji Temple and Futarasan Shrine are the present-day incarnations of those founded by Shodo Shonin.
Today, the legacy of Nikko’s founder can best be observed along the ancient and little known Takino-o Path. This stone-paved lane winds through a forest of massive ancient cedar trees. Especially during bouts of rain or fog, an excursion along the Takino-o Path is like being spirited…