Up in Utsunomiya

Yummy Gyoza & the Oya-ji Temple Complex

Tochigi Prefecture is no stranger to welcoming overseas visitors. Home to several amazing national parks, as well as a cluster of UNESCO World Heritage Sites, there’s a lot to do in this area of Japan. Alas, when it comes to Tochigi Prefecture’s capital city of Utsunomiya, most travelers simply elect to continue on to the popular destinations of Nikko and Kinugawa Onsen. While this is entirely understandable given how awesome these spots actually are, Utsunomiya deserves more credit than it receives. Hopefully, by the end of this article, you, the reader, will consider budgeting a little extra time to explore this under-appreciated location.

Utsunomiya’s roots originate within the early mists of time. Allegedly, the area has been settled since as far back as the Jomon period (14,00–300 BCE). The oldest written records of Utsunomiya hint that the city grew up around its central Utsunomiya Futarasan Shrine. Seeing this site was allegedly found in the year 353, that would make Utsunomiya over 1,600 years-old. From what I read while doing a bit of digging, Utsunomiya was controlled by a branch of the influential Fujiwara clan until it was later leveled by Toyotomi Hideyoshi, one of Japan’s three great unifiers. Thereafter, Utsunomiya went on to be an important hub that linked Tokyo (then called Edo) with Nikko.

Though Utsunomiya is today a modern industrial city, the capital of Tochigi Prefecture has deep roots in the mining industry. Speaking specifically, the local oya stone (which is named after the truly ancient Oya-ji temple complex seen above) has been highly prized over the ages and has been featured in structures all over Japan. Considered to be of top notch quality from an aesthetic perspective, the local material is a tough rock that is composed of finely-tied volcanic detritus. Thanks to this, the rock is both visually appealing while also being highly resistant to heat. These days, oya stone is used to create a range of distinct decorative walls, unique facades, and striking sculptures.

While the local oya stone has played a critical role in Utsunomiya’s past, the city is now known for something else — gyoza. These small dumplings are filled with meat and/or vegetables and succulently served pan-fried, deep fried, or boiled. All throughout…