The Heights of Yamadera

One of Tohoku’s Top Attractions

In today’s post we’ll be examining one of the northernmost outposts of the Tendai Buddhist sect that has been on my bucket list for years. Officially known as Risshaku-ji, the temple is more colloquially known as Yamadera (lit. “Mountain Temple”) as it seemingly clings desperately to the cliffs of Mt. Hoju. Yamadera is home to some absolutely spectacular panoramic views. But there is a catch! These promised vistas will require you to scale well over 1,000 steps as you wind your way up to the temple’s summit. As daunting as this may seem, and much like other locations in Japan, what awaits at the top will leave you breathless.

Historical records hint that Yamadera’s roots date all the way back to 860 AD. The temple was supposedly founded by a famous monk from the Tendai Sect’s home base of Enryaku-ji in Kyoto. Even today, a sacred ritual fire brought from this eminent temple continues to burn within Yamadera’s main building. Yet, despite the temple’s ancient pedigree, most of the current structures date back to the Edo period (1603–1868) reflecting the ravages of fire and war over the years.

Yamadera is also well-known for being the site where the master haiku poet Matsuo Basho composed some of his most famous work. En route to your destination towards the summit, you’ll encounter a handful of…