Last Updated: Apr 17, 2024

Yanaka’s Shitamachi Vibes

Experience Tokyo’s “Lower City”

Donny Kimball
6 min readJul 1, 2017

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Yanaka Ginza’s famed Yuyake Dandan in central Tokyo
This story was originally published on donnykimball.com and has been syndicated here on Medium.

Everyone knows about the climactic end of World War II and the atomic bombs yet only a few are aware of the deadly fire bombings of Tokyo. The plan was orchestrated by Air Force General Curtis LeMay and designed to kill as many Japanese as possible while incinerating the city. A vast area of Tokyo burned to the ground following the incendiary bombings; unlike Kyoto, much of what exists today was constructed during the postwar era.

Nevertheless, there are some areas within Tokyo that miraculously escaped the fire bombings and preserved their historical vibes. One of these areas is the Yanaka neighborhood near Ueno that we will be visiting today. This span of Tokyo has continued to maintain its Shitamachi (lit. “lower city”) vibe and is a stark contrast to the concrete jungle representing much of the city. If you’re seeking a leisurely stroll through the quaint streets of Tokyo from a bygone age then this is just the location for you.

Note: The Yanaka area is also often referred to as “Yanasen.” This nickname is a portmanteau of the Yanaka, Nezu and Sendagi neighborhoods which collectively form this section of Tokyo. It can be a bit confusing but know that if you see “Yanasen,” it means you’re in the right place!

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Donny Kimball

I'm a travel writer and freelance digital marketer who blogs about the sides of Japan that you can't find in the mainstream media. https://donnykimball.com/